Inside the Citizen 51-2273 diver we can find the Miyota 8200A. It's a 21-jewel movement that can be handwound and it beats at 21,600 bph and has a power reserve of roughly 45 hours. My experience is that it runs and keeps time very well and I like the hand winding ability. The movement also features day and date functionality. Like a lot of Seiko's, the Citizen features an alternating Japanese/English date wheel. Everything is quick setting and works smoothly.
Founded in 2004, Hautlence is a micro-brand with a production of around 200 watches a year and seven in-house calibres under its belt. Hautlence has carved a niche in the market with its avant-garde aesthetics, novel depiction of time and, up until now, very expensive collectors’-only prices. Jumping hours and retrograde minutes have become a house speciality and the Vagabonde models, inspired by satellite systems, propose wandering hours. One of the distinctive traits of replica Rolex watchHautlence is the retro TV-shaped case of some of its most popular models, less galactic in form than vessels from MB&F, De Bethune or Urwerk but nevertheless eye-catching. Since 2012, Hautlence forms part of the MELB holding group, which includes H. Moser & Cie. As different as these two brands are aesthetically, there is synergy on the movement front and the Vagabonde is equipped with an adaptation of a Moser calibre, in turn deployed on the 2018 Endeavour Flying Hours Planetary Display - to very different effect.
Dodane, a fifth-generation family run company, is another Type 20/21 manufacturer still in existence. After the quartz crisis, the family reconstituted the brand as Dodane 1857. Their Type 21, which comes at a considerably discounted price compared to Breguet, also doffs the chapeau towards the past.
The next one would be our topic of today reference 45501. Just like the previous model, you could get it with panda or reverse panda dials. Next in line is the so-called Tissot Lobster. Ref. 45502 had a funky integrated bracelet. 45503, aka Yachting (see above) comes next. The last two references (45505 and 45509) were day-date models. They had yet another Tissot caliber the 2920, a Lémania 5012 derivative. However, there is a third caliber, the one that my watch has, the caliber 2170.
Two options are offered: a classic black dial with beige-coloured numerals and track, or a more casual white dial with black printed numerals fake Rolex yachtmaster watches – the second has a sort of railroad-watch inspiration that is pleasant. On both watches, the hands are metallic and filled with Super-LumiNova. A series of dots next to the Arabic numerals enhance night-time legibility.
Now, I think that the Seamaster Bullhead is one attractive, tough, and commanding watch, but it sadly ended up more like the character Ferdinand. What I mean is that more often than not it ended up sniffing the flowers within the display case versus heading into the ring. Blame high prices, a fairly awkward case design, and hmm letR 17;s say high prices again for lackluster sales. It also exemplifies why the Bullhead simply isn’t the layout of choice for a chronograph. I own a vintage Seiko version and I really like it, but it is weird and I wear it exactly never.
Happy hunting, and meanwhile, click here for Jorg’s experiences on wearing a PloProf 1200M.
The new MB&F is said to be inspired by?the famous?1970s cartoon?‘Captain Future‘ or Captain Flam’ (depending on where the show was broadcasted). Captain Flam had a spaceship called The Comet that consisted of two spheres joined by a connecting tube. Using the idea as a base, the MB&F HM6 uses sapphire spheres linked together by a central ‘tube‘ or ‘fuselage‘. The HM6 has something in common with the HM3 Frog – for the domes – and with the HM4 – for the overall architecture. While the previous watches of Max Busser were mechanical, this one seems more organic, mixing futuristic codes with vintage, outdated design elements, creating a softer, rounder result.
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As is normally the case with the company’s watches, the MING 18.01 H41 uses an ETA 2824-2 that’s been modified by Schwarz Etienne. The date has been removed and there’s no dummy” stop when the crown is released. It’s also been adjusted to 5 positions and tested for 250 hours after the modifications. Hacking, a 40 hour power reserve and a 28,800 vph frequency are all expected.
Like when Rolex updated the Submariner in 2020, the case lugs have been slimmed down, creating a more elegant silhouette for the Rolex Explorer II. The wider, tool-like maxi lugs were never my favorite, perfect watches so I approve of this change. The overall case diameter remains the same at 42mm, though. So, if you’d been hoping to see a more Sub-like case size, then you were probably left a little disappointed. It makes perfect sense to keep the 42mm case, though. It allows the Explorer II to provide greater variety on the 40mm cases of the Submariner and the GMT Master II. In turn, this enables the Explorer II to have a more defined position within the Rolex catalog rather than getting lost among the competition.
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The Divers Sixty-Five is Oris' interpretation of a retro dive watch and was inspired by an Oris diver of 1965. With a water-resistance of just 100m, it might not qualify as a professional diver but its mission is more land-based as a robust, everyday watch with a splash of nostalgia. Released in countless variations since its launch in 2015, and in two case sizes (36mm and 40mm), this 40mm Sixty-Five has a notched bronze outer ring surrounding the black aluminium rotating bezel and a contrasting brushed steel case.